North Beach

From LoveToKnow SanFrancisco

North Beach, located between San Francisco's Union Square and Fisherman's Wharf, is a vibrant neighborhood with an Italian heritage. It was home to Jack Kerouac and many of the 1950s "Beat" writers. City Lights Bookstore still thrives in the neighborhood. It was also the boyhood home of baseball legend Joe DiMaggio and he and Marilyn Monroe lived in the neighborhood briefly while they were married. Today, the area is a mixture of spirited Italian cafes, green spaces, and eclectic stores. The east side of the neighborhood is home to many of the city's strip clubs, including the Condor Club, reputed to be the country's first recognized club of that type.

North Beach
North Beach

History

North Beach is a traditionally Italian neighborhood. Most of the buildings here were destroyed during the aftermath of the 1906 earthquake and the core of the neighborhood's colorful architecture dates from the period of rebuilding in its wake. North Beach has been home to a variety of personalities, including beat publisher Lawrence Ferlinghetti and director Francis Ford Coppola. The neighorhood has been featured in a number of Hollywood films, including The Wedding Planner, Barbary Coast, and Dirty Harry.

Attractions

North Beach is a wonderful neighborhood in which to stroll. Unlike adjacent Russian Hill, its streets are relatively flat. Grab a coffee or a light lunch and windowshop among the interesting storefronts. Attractions in North Beach include:

  • City Lights Bookstore - Established in 1953, City Lights was the country's first "all-paperback" bookstore. The establishment was bought by Beat fan and poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti in 1955 and he began publishing the works of his friends. City Lights is best known for publishing "Howl" by Ginsberg and "On the Road" by Jack Kerouac. The store, located at 261 Columbus Avenue, is still going strong and is a must-see for any booklover.
  • Washington Square Park - A large green space at the edge of North Beach, surrounding by restaurants. One side of the park is home to Sts. Peter and Paul Church, where Joe DiMaggio married Marilyn Monroe.

Dining in North Beach

North Beach is home to a variety of restaurants -- from coffee houses to fine dining establishments. Below is a sample of some of the best:

  • Caffe Trieste - Located on Vallejo Street in the heart of North Beach, this popular eaterie, opened in 1956, was the first espresso house on the West Coast and a favorite of the "beat" writers. Today, they have locations all over the Bay area, but are still known for their delicious coffee drinks.
  • Trattoria Volare - Located on Columbus Avenue in the shadow of Washington Square Park, this popular cafe serves hearty pastas, raviolis, and lasagna, homemade desserts, fresh seafood, and grilled meats -- all at reasonable prices.
  • Caffe Macaroni - This tiny cafe is a San Francisco institution. It's quirky -- with saucy servers and pasta on the ceiling. The food is traditional Italian and the fun goes all evening at its "Purple Onion" piano bar.

Visiting North Beach

North Beach is an easy walk from Union Square and Fisherman's Wharf. If you prefer, the Powell-Mason streetcar line ends at the outer edge of the neighborhood. Parking is limited along Columbus and Union Avenues.

There are a few small bed and breakfasts in North Beach, but most visitors will prefer to stay either at Union Square, Union Street, or Fisherman's Wharf.


 


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